Mulegeis an oasis on the shores of the Sea of Cortez

Mulege is an oasis in the middle of the desert.   It is a town situated on the shores of the Sea of Cortez, its homes and other buildings lying along the banks of a naturally occurring estuary well over a mile long, in the midst of a forest of palm trees – and all this in the middle of the driest part of the Baja Peninsula.

Mulege is also the county seat for the northern portion of the state of Baja California Sur, and has even – in the long-ago past – been the state capital.   It boasts the mission church known as Santa Rosalia de Mulege, built in the early 1700’s, and a now-abandoned jail built many years later that in its time let its inmates loose during the day to work, and had them come back to jail for the night.  It has a variety of rooms and rentals for visitors who are after the slow pace that has always characterized this piece of Baja California’s history, kayaking on the estuary, going out into the Sea of Cortez in a local fisherman’s panga to fish, swimming or snorkeling, and just plain lying around and resting.

It is in the rain shadow of the peninsula and receives literally no rainfall except on the rare occasions when it is visited by a large tropical storm, and thus its lush estuary is not a river but an arm of the Sea of Cortez.   Its municipal water comes from sources in the mountains.  In those same mountains are caves, and in a number of those caves\ are some of the best examples of the cave paintings – pinturas rupestres – made by the pre-Spanish native inhabitants.

 

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